Fem dagar [Five days] - Oct 2005

A blog taken from my handwritten notes. Background: Since I missed my maternal grandmother's last big party (age 90), I decided to crash her 95th birthday party in Linköping, Sweden.)

29-Sep THUR

4:45 am - Wake up (ouch!)

5:00 - Try to download Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince to my borrowed iPod Nano. It doesn't quite work, but I have a few chapters and lots of music (over 600 songs).

6:45 am - San Francisco International

Have to check in through the main counter since I'm flying out of the country. They offer me a new seat in the emergency row (more legroom) - hurrah, hurrah, hurrah! I wonder what happened to the greeting card I wrote last night for Elizabeth (turns out I stuck it in my luggage). I wish I'd taken time to record a story for Lilly-Karin to listen to in my absence.

7:00 am - Bagel with egg and Earl Gray tea. Flight's on time. Hate my head cold.

3:10 pm

Flying over Wisconsin. The plane is an Airbus A340, which is moderately comfortable. No one is sitting adjacent, so I can spread out my junk. There's an onboard video system that includes live camera views (forward and down), plus a selection of movies. Head rests adjust more than usual, so they almost fit. I'm tired, but awake. My connection at O'Hare was late (thanks United), so I didn't get lunch.

SAS is now featuring wireless internet access - for free this month. Who knew? Almost wished I'd brought a laptop. Almost.

4:00 AM (Stockholm time) FRIDAY

I wake from a doze, stiff and sore. This is always the worst part about these transatlantic hauls.

6:00 AM

Some passenger is really sick in the back. They have him on oxygen and put together a bed in the crew space near the galley.

Tired. Haven't slept much all week prior to this trip. We're passing south of the Faroe Islands, Iceland, and the Shetland islands. Norway is coming up.

Flying is just a long, long, boring process. You can't truly relax (unless you're in Business Class), and you just want to get there. Ah, breakfast appears. Dinner was passable - salmon with pasta. The salad seemed reasonably fresh and SAS didn't charge for alcohol in the main cabin.

I haven't quite figured out what to do on arrival. Part of me really wants to stroll through Gamla Stan. Another part wants to head out to my cousin's place in Danderyd and rest a bit.

1-Oct SAT
7:00 AM - Stockholm

Morning in Danderyd, watching gray clouds stalk the locals.

Yesterday I spent most of the day walking, which surprised me. I arrived at Arlanda on time and collected my luggage. Called Elizabeth and heard about Lilly-Karin's new bright orange fiberglass cast. The orthopedic surgeon wasn't sure about the hairline fracture in her foot, so they're taking no chances. Poor goofy bug.

Caught the oh-so-convenient shuttle from Arlanda to downtown (170KPH on a good day), arriving in the bustle of the Central Station.

Off to a bookstore for L-K and a birthday card for Mormor "In vino, veritas" I also stopped off at the Apotek to get something for my sinuses and Bamse bandages for L-K.

Since that didn't take long, I started poking through the shops, which had just opened. Found a sweater to wear with my new suit, plus another one just for fun. Had to stop myself from buying a new wardrobe - things fit off the rack here. Besides, I didn't want to carry that much and, well, I can't afford it.

Met up with Andreas for an early lunch near Ahlens City. The streets are torn up for repairs and such. Guess the city fathers wanted to wait for the end of the tourist season. Weather is sunny and crisp - 15 degrees. A bit chilly in the shade, but it feels good to be moving.

Salmon for lunch, and salmon for dinner. Thrice in 24 hours is a bit much, even if it's Norwegian and very fresh.

After lunch, I meander down the Avenue of the Flags into Gamla Stan, searching for gifts and interesting architecture. Not much of the former, although I do discover a few spots for children's clothing, some beautiful ironwork, and more importantly, a tea shop that Elizabeth and I once encountered in 1999. Couldn't remember the tea, and my nose isn't the best today, so I get a few things to try such as Puss & Kram, Major Dickason, and Svart Vinbar. Black teas.

Stayed up until 8:30 pm local, made a quick call home, then slept. My hosts are stirring. Time to finish my fil mjölk and have another cup of tea. Have a little time this morning before my train to prepare Mormor's gift and simply enjoy the scenery.

1-Oct SAT
11:30 AM

En route to Linköping. It's an overcast day, and the other passengers seem content to snooze, play chess, or read. For a brief time, a Gen Y male sat next to me and watched pirated copies of Friends and I, Robot. No accounting for taste. My current book, Newton's Wake, is good but I find it challenging. Sleepy day, lulled by a train.

2-Oct SUN
11:10 am

Back to Stockholm. My Aunt Anna is riding the train with me, and my cousin Anna-Mia is meeting us at the Central Station.

Still a bit tired, which isn't surprising. The younger folks (barnbarn) at the jubilee last night starting leaving around 23:30, after the traditional warm hot dog. This was something I hadn't seen, but is apparently quite common. It's the Swedish equivalent of going out for a pizza when the bars close.

The jubilee party was, by all accounts, a great success. Apparently, my attendance remained a secret until just before the party started. Mormor was literally thrilled beyond words. Then, to top that, cousin Otto made an early return from his Italian vacation. He announced his marriage to sambo Ulrika Carlsson. She even changed her name to Dandenell. Good news and surprises all around.

Uncle Lars-Otto set the standard for silliness with his toastmaster attire - black frock with tails, baseball cap, and US $100 bow tie. Oh, he also was wore a frog badge. There is a saying in Sweden that when someone is speaking nonsense, frogs are jumping out of your mouth. Lars-Otto didn't want anyone to be confused on that point.

Uncle Svante was somewhat subdued, and Uncle Stig very serious, as always. I managed to rate a seat at Mormor's table with her sister Anta and brother-in-law Bengt. Bengt has visited the States, and remembers me from more than 30 years ago. (He asked me to carry his regards to my father.) Anta is 10 years younger than Mormor, which makes her a spry 85. She's funny, sharp, and sweet.

People expressed their great delight and appreciation for my visit. My actions are not in keeping with the normally practical Smålander behavior. Aunt Gunhild and Uncle Svante told me how they missed seeing the Americans over the last few years. I might need to alter my travel plans next time to include a side trip to Linköping. With Anna-Karin and Andreas having a great flat here, it's a definite consideration.

My mother ate and drank with gusto. I haven't seen her this happy in a long time. Whatever sibling politics and stresses were put aside for the occasion. (She did seem concerned that I wasn't having a good time. In the long course of the party (8 hours!) I wandered about and listened more than spoke. It was quite enough.) Learned a bit more family history. Seems that the common ancestor, Noel Dandenell, had a knack for making better iron for cannons. That's why King Gustav wanted those Valloner to come work for him!

Lars-Otto wrote original lyrics for several traditional folk tunes for the party. Brought home copies for a leisurely translation, although Anna-Karin gave me enough context to make me laugh more than once. Most of the songs ended each refrain with a toast. Skål!

The Dandenell paparazzi had their due with all the digital cameras in the room. Uncle Gunnar approached me with mock serious, declaring, "Your camera is bigger than mine!"

Mormor reflected that she always thought living to 100 was unimaginable. Now, perhaps, another 5 years wasn't TOO long. Her mind and soul are strong, but her knees and hands might not make it.

Cousin Otto and I agreed that Mormor had a good chance of reaching 100. When that happens, I told her, I'll come for the party.

The promised rain arrived and left during the late hours of the night, leaving cool, clean air behind. It's still warm enough to go out with just a sweater. Glad I didn't need heavy weather gear - my suitcase was heavy enough.

Anna-Karin and Andreas have a great flat on the 2nd floor of a 100-year-old building near Linköping's train station. Their front door opens up on a large public park. The flat is about 150 square meters, with 3 baths. ("Not very practical," says Aunt Anna.) The open space and high ceilings may take a bit more to heat, but it's very comfortable. They are looking into buying a house somewhat closer to the old part of the city. Like the Bay Area, prices are artificially high here.

9:30 AM - MON
3-Oct
Arlanda airport

Spent the night with Otto and Ulrika at their new flat. I met the newest Dandenell, Agaton, who is fascinated by modern art. Otto and I ate the traditional pre-departure meal of pizza and looked through pictures of his wedding in Positano, Italy.

Prior to that, I had a lovely afternoon with my cousin Anna-Mia and her family. Her sons are striving for dominance (ages 4 and 6?) and the extensive remodeling of their flat has the reduced the living space dramatically. Everyone feels a bit claustrophobic, I suspect.

At the end of the day, I had to turn down 2 offers for lodging, and at least 1 lunch invitation. The hospitality and generosity of my extended family is so refreshing.

The only glitch so far is a missing CF card with some of my photos from the early hours of the party (and the odd photo of Gamla Stan). I hope I left it at someone's apartment. Lots of other people can send me their photos if necessary.

Otto walked me to the metro station this morning, and I managed to get lost only once at the airport (gate 62, not 26). The flight, unfortunately, is full, and then some. SAS is offering to buy back seats, Forget it. I don't want to miss my Chicago connection.

Called Elizabeth early this morning — she's ready for me to come home. Jah. It's time.

Glad I came. I needed this trip.